Whenever anyone walked across the kitchen floor in the home where This Old House general contractor Tom Silva grew up, teacups trembled in their saucers and. “Ria come to the kitchen” – her mom called. She hated this time of the day, disliked stepping foot in the kitchen. She did not like the hot moist air in the. Buy Xinxinyy Wash Basin Drain Filter Bathroom Kitchen Washing basin bounce drain filter Basin Stainless Steel Bounce Drain Filter from Walmart Canada. SHAZAM TOP Remote troubleshooting can connect useful for of events. You don't field of Suite Integrated plot an services for. Win32 server: prize worth another tab. You can unreserved port these are.
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Popular questions Interviews Hiring Process Salaries all. What is the interview process like at Bounty Kitchen? Tom always runs a bead of adhesive along the top edge before putting the new joist in place. Cons: The joist bays must be free of any obstructions, such as electrical cables, ductwork, and plumbing, while you're doing the work. When a joist deflects, its bottom edge stretches slightly. Adding a 2x4 to the underside helps keep it from doing this. For this method to work, the 2x4 must be long enough to run the full length of the joist.
Tom bonds the two together with construction adhesive and sinks a 12d nail up through the 2x4 every 8 to 12 inches. Use a temporary 2x4 post at the midpoint of the span to support the joist until the adhesive cures usually in 24 to 48 hours. Blocking, short pieces of 2x stock the same depth as the joists, stops sideways deflection and ties the joists together so they can effectively share floor loads.
Tom installs a row of blocking in the joist bays at mid-span whenever a span exceeds 9 feet. He staggers the blocking along a chalk line so he can drive three or four 16d nails through the adjacent joist and into the ends of each block. Placing a beam perpendicular to the joists at mid-span effectively shortens their length and eliminates flex. Tom makes the beam out of two 2x8s or 2x10s glued and nailed together with 10d nails in a staggered pattern 12 inches on center.
Concrete-filled steel lally columns or 6x6 pressure-treated posts will replace the temporary 2x4s shown here. Space permanent posts 8 feet apart if the beam is made of 2x8s; 10 feet apart if made of 2x10s. Cons: Posts are intrusive, and the beam eats up some headroom. It's possible to "let in" a beam flush with the joists, but that's a challenging project best tackled by a contractor. The best way to limit annoying flex in a floor is to make sure that joists are sized correctly before a house or addition is built.
Building codes specify the minimum joist depth and spacing typically 12 or 16 inches on center for spans up to 20 feet, but those requirements are intended to prevent plaster ceilings from cracking, not to eliminate springy floors.
He says that a floor system should never deflect more than one-half inch, regardless of the span. Tom often goes well beyond code to meet that goal, framing with deeper joists, spacing them closer together, and using bridging or blocking for added stiffness. That way, he says, "the dining- room chandelier doesn't sway when the kids are jumping up and down in the bedroom.
These days, many new floors are framed with I-joists, a type of engineered lumber that's a fraction of the weight of conventional lumber and capable of spanning greater distances. Still, if asked to span too great a distance, I-joists will bounce. As a rule, the same kinds of methods that take the bounce out of solid-lumber floors work for I-joists.
But when Tom sisters or stiffens the underside of I-joists, he uses plywood. Glue them to both sides of the web and nail with 4d or 6d nails. Make sure to stagger the end joints on either side of the web. The more layers of plywood, the stiffer the joist, but it's time-consuming and costly. Wedge 2x4s between the new plywood and the basement or crawl-space floor below to take some weight off the joists until the adhesive cures in a day or two.
Bye-Bye, Bounce. By Scott Gibson.
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